Washington Post
Washington's Little Ethiopia
A New Cluster of Restaurants Brings Exotic (Yet Inexpensive) Appeal to Ninth and U St
By Walter Nicholls
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In addition to customary Ethiopian dishes, Axum, an unpretentious cafe across the street from Queen Makeda, is noted for its fried chicken cutlet served with a side of pasta. "It shows our Italian influence, and it's light," says owner Gebre Kahassai. (Italy twice invaded and occupied Ethiopia, in 1895 and 1935.) "Say you're driving a cab all day; injera can be pretty heavy," he says.
The Washington region, with its 200,000 people of Ethiopian descent, has the largest Ethiopian population outside of the country itself, according to an unofficial estimate by the embassy. With the addition of Etete, which specializes in vegetarian meals, 10 Ethiopian restaurants now are clustered at U Street east of 13th and in the 1900 block of Ninth Street. Each has its distinct ambiance and fans.
The new enclave has twice as many Ethiopian restaurants as Adams Morgan, where Ethiopian entrepreneurs began opening food businesses in the late 1970s. The exotic and inexpensive cuisine attracts not only fellow countrymen but especially students and tourists. Meals are a communal, social activity, and there is no need for a knife and fork. Ethiopian is all about finger food.... >>more
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