Washington CityPaper
by
Todd Kliman
"... But although it might not meet most specs for a first or second date (or, for the fusspots among us, a third or 30th date, either), Awash, named for a river, delivers good, authentic Ethiopian cooking with impressive consistency. An appetizer called azifa , made of beans, diced green chilies, and mustard, and served at room temperature, sets the tone-this is food that makes no accommodations to more delicate sensibilities, that knows how to be assertive without crossing the line into being overpowering. The vegetarian platter, a handy barometer of quality in any Ethiopian restaurant, is first-rate, boasting as it does a light yet buttery gomen , almost creamy yellow lentils, and a red-lentil stew with a fine peppery character; and both its potato-carrot stew and tomato salad are the best of their kind in town..." >>more
|