MASSAWA CAFÉ

AOL CityGuide
--by Lisa Perry

The flavorful cuisine of East Africa, specifically of Ethiopia and Eritrea, is made-to-order according to customer spice preferences. If you've never tried food from this region, be sure to sample a little of everything on a meat-lover's or vegetarian platter. The meat combination consists of Zigni (squares of lean beef, simmered in red pepper sauce with regional spices), Zebhi Dorho (marinated chicken cooked with onions, tomatoes, tesmi butter, red pepper sauce and spices) and Allicha Begee (tender squares of lamb in berbere sauce). All entrees come with injera, a grain-based flatbread. The venue is located in a nondescript strip mall in southeast Denver. But inside, the decor is stylishly simple and clean, accented by white tablecloths, flowers and smooth jazz. Though the dining room is smallish, there's still enough distance between tables to avoid that uncomfortable, packed-in feeling. The restaurant unexpectedly features a small, private room with a billiards table and Ethiopian or Eritrean coffee service -- reserve it with a phone call. >>more

The Denver Post
Cabbie right about Massawa -- By Kyle Wagner, Restaurant Reviewer

"... Massawa Cafe is named for the Eritrean city that sits on the coast of the Red Sea, and the eatery is careful to call itself an "East African/Eritrean restaurant." Without getting into any of the political implications, suffice it to say that people from Eritrea consider themselves separate from Ethiopia, with their own traditions and cuisine. However, to the average Denver diner, the subtle differences are likely to be lost.

Funny enough, the owner's name is Ethiopia Mebrahtu, and with the help of her husband, Haile Demoze, and two sons, Alex and John Hailemelekat, she cooks and serves some of the most deeply flavored, well-spiced Eritrean/Ethiopian fare around.

As always, the dishes arrive on platters lined with injera, fermented, grain-based flatbread that, when warm, is so thick and seemingly impermeable you want to wrap it around you like a shawl. Instead, tear off the pieces and scoop up the entrees and side dishes (with your right hand only, if tradition matters) from Massawa's smallish menu...

The best way to sample this roster is with one of the combination platters (or both, for a group), either meat ($9) or vegetarian ($8.95). Choices from the meat section include gored gored ($7.95 as a solo dish), cubes of tenderloin marinated in a buttery, chile-fired sauce that can come as hot or not as your tongue can take. Kilwa dorho ($7.50 solo) brings intensely flavored chicken bits grilled with onions and tomatoes, and zigni wat ($7.50) is lamb stewed with berbere, the African hot chile powder blended with cardamom, garlic, fenugreek and coriander." >>more