Thanks to Tsegaye Berhe, owner of the popular Axum Cafe (698 Haight Street, San Francisco, 415-252-7912) and general manager Glen Mack, the space is now a deep, dark, cavernous lounge, with a raised stage, retooled 1950s round booths, and gorgeous acoustics. Red-stained walls are peppered with art deco sconces that were found in the old restaurant's basement. An enormous, curved bar sweeps across the eastern end. The whole effect is one of unpretentious atmosphere - a genuine retro feel that practically croons throughout the room. What's old here is still old, it's just been opened up and rethought with jazz in mind.
All of it is served on and eaten with a tasty pancake towel called injera, a spongy swath of flat bread used to mop up each bite. Lightweights should check the heat level of any dish - the native Ethiopian ber-beri pepper that Berhe imports, along with other exotic spices, has roughly triple the potency of a habanero, though it's ground and used in miniscule portions for flavor. Be sure to order a cup of honey wine to wash it all down. But if the spicy food doesn't get you hot, the cool jazz will. >>more
AXUM CAFE
Axum is a bare-bones operation packed with a diverse Lower Haight crowd, especially on the weekends. Dishes are served on a large piece of injera, the Ethiopian pancakelike bread, with a refreshingly tangy salad. The vegetarian combo for two or more starts at $12, and includes five different dishes, including spicy mushrooms simmered with tomatoes, and a milder dish of cabbage and potatoes. Many of the meat dishes, especially the lamb, are properly spicy and satisfying, too.
Cuisine: African
Vitals: 698 Haight St. (at Pierce); (415) 252-7912. Dinner nightly. Also at 1233 Polk St. >>more
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